A Shirt Style Guide

3. No Iron? No Problem: Here are a couple solutions to remove wrinkles if you don't have an iron handy. (1) Boil water in a metal pot, pour it out, and use the bottom of the hot pot to smooth out the shirt. (2) Boil water in a kettle and hold your shirt above the steam to get rid of any creases. (3) Hang your shirt in the bathroom while you take a hot shower.

It's time to get a new linen shirt for the summer. Linen is breathable, absorbent, and a great casual option for the hot weather and weekends. Click on your favorite and order today.  

How to Clean a Suit Most common cleaning mistake is taking your suit to the Dry Cleaners too many times. It is advised that you do not dry-clean your suit unless you really need to. The chemicals will over time damage the wool and they will weaken and breakdown. We recommend asking the cleaners to "steam press only" and not dry clean - price should be half the dry cleaning price. We also noticed that "organic" cleaning has a tendency to shrink the lining, which will distort the suit. Wool is stain resistant in that it does not absorb liquid readily. However, you must wipe up stains immediately or else it will be absorbed. A proper clothes brush (below) will help remove stains or marks. Other Tips: Storing - When storing your garment, it is imperative to prevent from moths. Make sure your suit is clean and store with moth balls and cedar chips to both kill and repel any insects. Make sure the moth balls do not come in direct contact with the wool. Shine - If you do get a shiny spot from ironing wool, spray it with a little distilled white vinegar. This should remove the shine. Rinse with cool water to get rid of any vinegar smell. Wrinkles - Wool will shed wrinkles naturally, if given the chance. For a wool item that is wrinkled, hang the suit up and place in a steamy bathroom (easily done by running the hot shower for a few moments), and wrinkles should fall out easily. However, it is not the same as getting it pressed from the cleaners.   Summer Suit - Seersucker Seersucker is a thin, puckered, all-cotton fabric, commonly striped or checked, used to make clothing for spring and summer wear. Seersucker is woven in such a way that some threads bunch together, giving the fabric a wrinkled appearance in places. During the British colonial period, seersucker was a popular material in Britain's warm weather colonies like British India. When seersucker was first introduced in the United States, the material was considered a mainstay of the summer wardrobe of gentlemen, especially in the South, who favored the light fabric in the high heat and humidity of the summer. In time for Spring/Summer, We have nine different colors for you.

New Partnership - Savile Row Society At Savile Row Society (SRS) you work with a stylist to get the look you want! Their professional stylists create outfits that match your style perfectly. There is no cost for their styling services, just the cost of the clothes you buy. SRS is offering friends of Alexander West $50 off their first purchase of $250 or more once you create an account.  CLICK HERE to get started! * Alexander West will be making custom suits and shirts for SRS clients. Wedding Suit Ideas Do you have a wedding coming up or know someone who does? We put together some wedding suit ideas that are a bit different from the norm. Remember, if you like any of the below ideas or find inspirations from magazines, email or contact us and we will work with you to create your ideal suit. This ensemble reminds me of a british debonair in the countryside during the fall. - I am a fan of the subtle dark brown and light blue check pattern on a brown glen plaid fabric. - Love the matching bow tie as it exudes a fun and friendly personality - Light blue check pattern on the suit complements well with the light blue shirt. - Usually, the white collar on a blue shirt is very "banker" like, but on this occasion, the suit pattern and bow tie goes well with the white shirt collar. - The polka dot pocket square exudes fun and the light tan color doesn't stand out from rest of the suit. There are a lot of different patterns here, so it is important that all the elements work together and do not clash.   This is a three-piece gray suit with a tint of brown. - Well fitting three-piece suit is a classic ensemble. - Note that he is not wearing a belt, so there is no bulky accessory in the middle - Love the dark brown shoes There are two things that I would change: - One, I would change to plain bottom cuff - Two, on the vest, you can see a little bit of the white shirt right below the last vest button. I see this in many magazine spreads and it is just wrong. My theory for this common mistake is that pants have a lower rise these days and the general pattern on the vest hasn't caught up with the times.   This would be a great summer wedding suit. - He is wearing a three piece suit - The groom's blue eyes pair very nicely with the royal blue suit. He also has light colored hair, so it is better to pick a light colored suit than a dark suit. - There are minimal colors at work here. Royal blue on the suit and navy/white tie. White on the flower, shirt and pocket square. That is it. Simple and classic. - I like the peak lapels as they are more distinct and more fashion forward than the notch lapel. - The suit is a bit tight on him on the waist and sleeves. It is pulling a bit too much.   What is not to like about this suit? Love the combination of blue and grey vest. - Important point here is the shade of blue, which has a shade of gray, so it matches very well with the light grey. - Fan of the peak lapel and ticket pocket - Matching vest, pocket square and bow tie - Bow tie adds flair and classic vibe to any wardrobe At Alexander West, we make custom shirts, suits, tuxedos, ties and pocket squares. Only custom!

What is the difference between a black and white tie event?  Well, below are the rules!  

Most of our clients are familiar with the Four-In-Hand, Half-Windsor or Full-Windsor.  Well, there are 15 other documented ways to tie your knot.  Which knot is YOU?

Were you ever frustrated with the tie being too short or too long? Did you look everywhere for the perfect slim navy matte tie? Search no further, Alexander West is launching our custom tie collection. In addition to choosing your tie fabric, you can also specify: 1. Length - off the rack ties usually range between 58 and 60 inches. 2. Width - 1.75" modern slim tie to the traditional 3.5" width ties 3. Your initials on a metal link   Tie length will depend on your torso length and not necessarily on your height. There are three main factors to focus on, your personal style preference, body type and suit lapel width.   Personal Preference   1.75" - Considered to be more fashion forward.  It is difficult to justify a tie less than 1.75" since it can look out of place  2.25" to 2.75" - Modern men who appreciate slim fitting (aka European cut) suits and shirts 3" to 3.25" - Modern and elegant, yet not conservative 3.5"-3.75" -  Traditional / Conservative   Matching Your Suit Lapel         A rule of thumb if you are after a classic business style, is that the tie should be as wide as the lapel of the suit you are wearing it with.   At Alexander West, we can easily match your tie width with your suit lapel width.        Body Type Tie width should also consider your body type.  For example, an ultra skinny tie on a person with a 18" neck and 48" chest throws off the correct proportion by over emphasizing the head and upper torso.

We found a great illustration below that shows correct as well as ill-fitting jackets and pants.  We take great care and attention to make sure all of our clients have well tailored clothes. On the length of the jacket. Since people have different torso and arm lengths, it is better to look at the person's height minus the head and neck for a proper balance.  Also, pants length is determined by shoes type, width of the pants cuff and your ideal style.

Usually, picking your fabric for your next Alexander West suit is easy: Grey, Navy, stripes, small checks, or solids. You choose what your business dictates. BUT, when it comes down to picking out the lining fabric,quite a few clients let their true colors (pun intended) shine! We invite you to come see not only our suit fabric selection, but our lining selection as well. You may be surprised to see what you'll find- a perfectly fitted business suit fully lined with personality!

Truly no ordinary briefcase, Contango Goods' Axton is crafted in NYC from surprisingly soft oiled leather, English bridle leather handles, cotton flannel lining, and industrial grade rivets and zippers. The full grain leather will develop a patina that can be buffed out with the tips of your fingers. The slim design and superior quality of this innovative take on the classic briefcase far outweighs it's price: $375. Available in Brown or Black at the Alexander West showroom. If you are interested in seeing other cool fashion items I suggest you to take a look at Instyle.com and GadgetHit Fashion Gadgets for more fashion-tech things. There are also several fashion blogs to get inspiration from.

Because a tuxedo is meant to be formal wear, it should differ greatly in style and detail from your business suit. We have put together some points to consider when designing your tuxedo:

As a benefit to our esteemed AW clients, Craig is generously offering a 20% discount on your next visit to Bistro 1018 - simply mention Alexander West when you arrive. Craig suggests trying their Braised Berkshire Pork Shoulder, served au jus with rosemary gremolata and black eyed peas. Bistro 1018 1018 Amsterdam Avenue, New York, 10025 212-662-7600  |  www.bistroten18.com

Your suit coat is probably too long. We've recently seen quite a few suit coats that reach to the middle of a client's thigh. Traditionally, a suit coat's length is determined by dividing the body in half (from neck base to shoes). The Alexander West Modern suit has a more modern length - slightly shorter than the traditional length. Our AW Modern length doesn't let the suit coat overwhelm the body, which makes the torso look long; it extends the leg line by exposing more of the pants, thus making you look taller and skinnier. Because every body is different, we will work with you to determine the ideal length for you when you come in for a fitting.

 

"DEAR ALEX" "I lost a lot of weight recently and my old suits look pretty awful. They're really boxy and I don't care for that look anymore especially now I'm so much smaller. " - JDC, Greenwich CT   When tailoring a jacket (or "coat", which is the proper term), we suggest a low button stance as shown on the right (in addition to proper fitting waist). The depth of the button stance creates a deep "V" shape which broadens the shoulders and chest and narrows the waist. Conversely, a high button stance doesn't create the deep "V" shape, and broadens the mid section of the coat - giving the illusion of a larger body underneath. During your fitting we will work with you to place that top button in order to create the shape that will best enhance your body shape.

  Our client, Matt Kolmes, and his lovely bride Jenny pose for this beautiful tropical wedding photo. Matt came to us because he wanted a suit appropriate for his Hawaiian wedding- a lightweight wool in a warm sand shade ideal for beating the tropical sun but also doesn't look out of place in Hawaii's natural beauty. We wish them a lifetime of happiness and looking great!  

   

I sat down with Philip Weisner of Kestenbaum & Weisner to learn about his jewelry business.  He is a third generation jeweler and he has been in the business for more than 30 years. I first met Philip in 2011 at John Allan's when I had a pop-up shop there.  He was originally an Ascot Chang client but I was able to convince him to give Alexander West a try.   Philip's natural preference was for white and blue solid shirts only, but I nudged him to branch out to lavender, yellow and other more interesting patterns.   Naturally, they looked great on him! There are many choices for buying diamond rings and jewelry in New York.   What separates Phil from the rest is that he is a relaxed, friendly and trusted jeweler.  He has a hard working, traditional work ethic, and believes that if you make a customer happy, you'll have that customer for life.   In fact he has many stories of multiple generations of the same family purchasing engagement rings from him! Mention that you are an Alexander West client and Phil promised me that he would welcome you with the same outstanding service that he would give me.  Click on the video link below to learn more about him, and to hear some sage advice on purchasing jewelry.

You guys are the perfect fit, why shouldn't your wedding shirts fit just as perfectly? Our featured couple, Gary and Sal, had shopped for weeks for the ideal shirts for their wedding when they decided to ask us to help them create their shirts. Your wedding day is all about expressing your love and personality, and custom shirts are an important facet in the planning of your big day. If your wedding is a formal grand event or a casual destination affair, we will create shirts to your taste and accommodate special requests that will make your shirts reflect your personality.

New York city's concrete jungle can be a little difficult during the summer.  The humidity and temperature will leave a lasting impression on your shirts. "What's the best way to get these stains out?" Some of the answers are a bit surprising*: 1. Aspirin - Crush two aspirins and mix the powder in 1/2 cup of warm water.  Soak the stained part of the shirt in the solution for two to three hours and rinse 2. Lemon Juice -  Create a mix of lemon juice (or white vinegar) and water and rub the solution into the stained area of the shirt. Hope it helps! *RD.com

With the US Open right around the corner, we have compiled a few local places to practice our killer back-hands, ace worthy serves, slicing fore-hands, and torpedo volleys. Even if you don't rank with the USTA these courts make you feel like a pro. 1.  Central park.  Nice clay courts.  Rules for shoes (smooth-soles) and reserving courts are strict, but with a permit ($200) reserving is pretty easy, do it a few days in advance.  Get there 10 before the hour or they give away your court. You can reserve one court for singles for 1 hour (only one person needs a permit) or one court for  doubles for 2 hours (two people need permits).  Costs $15 to play.  Each person. Courts are open from April to November. 2.  Roosevelt Island Racquet Club.  Not that hard to get to -- the F train one stop from Manhattan or the tram.  Nice, clean facility-- not high end nice but very comfortable.  Rates are cheaper than the other indoor/winter courts.  And lots of room on the court to play. No strict shoe guidelines. 3.  Sutton.  Not open in the spring/summer.  Good courts, not much facility available.  Very expensive.  Clay.  Indoor. 4.  Midtown Tennis.  Indoor, clay.  Fair and  fairly inexpensive. Not a lot of room to play, so you or your partner better have good aim. 5.  Gotham, up in the Bronx.  Plenty of hard indoor courts. 6.  Randalls Island has some courts too.  Difficult to get to, and pricey. So plan ahead. photo courtesy of gogo-tennis.com

How does one keep a well organized dopkit? Start at your local drug store and load up on the basics: mini shampoo, conditioner, toothpaste, disposable razor, hand sanitizers, floss, mouth wash, etc... Nowadays you can find virtually anything in a convenient travel size. If you're the high maintainence type, hop on over to Sephora or Ricky's. They carry most exclusive brands and fragrances, all in an easy TSA approved sized. Next time the lady at the counter bombards you with samples, take them! You never know when they'll come in handy. store medications in your dopkit so you know where all the essentials are.

The summer linen shirt epitomizes the season. It's relaxed, easy to wear, makes you look relaxed and worry free. Don't let the wrinkles and creases worry you, it's called casual wear for a reason. Available in every color, pattern imaginable, its easy to transition into for every occasion. Probably not suitable for the office, but if you have a company bbq or outing, by all means throw it with a lightweight jacket or roll up the sleeves for an easy elegant look. Pack it flat and let it hang as soon as you get to your destination. Since cotton linens soak up moisture and debris easily, wash after each wear. Careful with the bbq sauce! photo courtesy of thelondonlounge.net

The time between Memorial Day and Labor isn't just about sun and Summer Fridays, the real issue is getting to and enjoying the best BBQ's around. Should it be lamp chops, baby back ribs, a smoldering sirloin, chicken wings, rib eye, pork loin....whatever your 'canvas' is the most important ingredient is the sauce! Everyone knows it's all in the sauce. Spicy, a bit sweet, or tangy, sour, zesty, peppery. Whatever suits your taste-buds as long as it pleases the crowds. Never give away your secret, keep them guessing and keep them coming back year after year. We decided to break the rules and share our favorite 'secret' sauce. Try ours or make it your own. You can't go wrong. The AW Tested BBQ Sauce (don't get it on your shirt) 2 cups white vinegar 1/4 cup sugar 1/2 cup brown sugar 1 Tbl. Worcestershire sauce 1 Tbl. lemon juice 1/2 Tbl. salt 1 tsp. finely ground black pepper 1 tsp. finely ground red pepper 3/4 tsp. hot sauce (add more or less to your liking) 1 cup Heinz Ketchup Combine all ingredients, except ketchup, in stockpot and bring to boil – cover and reduce heat, stirring occasionally until sugar is disolved. Then add ketchup, stir and remove from heat. Yields about 3/4 quart.