A Shirt Style Guide

The modern dress shirt has come a long way, after it took shape and developed at the end of the nineteenth century, during Victorian times. Throughout history the dress shirt has been modernized with different details; the breast pocket introduced last. The standard modern shirt can be as diverse as choice and taste, and its style can be altered to ones liking. There are many elements that make up the dress shirt anatomy, but every classic dress shirt includes: a back, yoke, a front, plackets, cuffs, a collar, and hem. It is imperative to know the anatomy of a dress shirt (both terms and definitions) and not just something you simply pull on and off your head. Collar Base: (or collar stand) is the band of fabric sewn into the neckline of a dress shirt, which the collar attaches to. Collar Leaf: the outside fabric of the collar, located at the front sides, which is folded over the collar base. Collar Point Length: the distance between the collar point and the top of the collar leaf. Collar Front Band: the area on the base that sits between the collar points. Collar Point Spread: the distance between the collar points. Collar: the part of a shirt that encompasses the neckline of the garment, often so as to fold or roll over. Comes in various shapes, depending on the face shape and occasion. Yoke: a shaped piece fabric in a garment, fitted about or below the neck and shoulders, from which the rest of the garment hangs. It can be split in two, called the "split-yoke." Placket Front: a standard shirt front with a  placket sewn on top of the shirt front. Plain Front: a standard shirt front with a hidden placket; usually lapped left over right for men, and vice versa for women. Fly Front: a flap of material down one side of the front opening of a garment to conceal buttons or fasteners. Armhole: the opening in a dress shirt, which the arms are sewn in to. Sleeve: the part of a garment that covers the arm and is usually cut wider than the cuffs. Most sleeve lengths fall between 32 and 36 inches. Sleeve Placket: a distinctive feature that is sewn on the sleeve; the opening of the sleeve fabric near the cuff Cuff: a fold or band serving as a trimming or finish for the bottom of a sleeve. Some cuff styles include: French Cuffs and Barrel Cuffs. Back Collar Height: the part of the collar that is folded over, at the backside of the dress shirt. Yoke: a shaped piece fabric in a garment, fitted about or below the neck and shoulders, from which the rest of the garment hangs. It can be split in two, called the "split-yoke." Hang Loop: a piece of fabric sewn into the yoke seam which allows the shirt to be hung at this point. Side Pleats: single fabric folds at the other parts of the shirt back. Box Pleat Front: a double fabric fold, with the material folded under at each side at the back center of a shirt. Armhole: the opening in a dress shirt, which the arms are sewn in to. Sleeve: the part of a garment that covers the arm and is usually cut wider than the cuffs. Most sleeve lengths fall between 32 and 36 inches. Darts: a tapered seam of fabric for adjusting the fit of a garment. Hem: the finished lower edge of the dress shirt body. Tail: the part of a shirt below the waistline. Written by Giselle Diaz

COLLAR STYLE

When selecting a suitable collar style for a dress shirt, the most important thing to remember is that it should complement your face shape to give you a balanced look. If you have a round face, we recommend a regular collar with straighter points that will serve to elongate the look of your face and neck (A1 vs A2).   If your face is narrow, a spread collar will give you more balance (B1 vs B2).  If your face is neither round nor narrow, you can select any of the spread styles, but we recommend the spread style as it is more formal. The button-down collar should only be considered for a casual shirt.  Button-down collars should not be worn with a tie.

FRONT STYLE

There are two main options for the front of the shirt.  The first option is a placket - a fold of fabric on both sides of the buttons going down the front of the shirt.  It makes a clear center and provides more vertical lines on the shirt which give the wearer a slimmer look (Placket A).  This is the traditional look for dress shirts. The other option is to have a plain front with no placket (Plain B).  This look is more modern and has fewer lines on the shirt.

CUFF STYLE

You have two main options for cuff style: French or Barrel.  A French cuff is a more formal choice and must be worn with cufflinks.  You can choose either a French Square or French Round cuff.  While the choice will not affect the shirt's formality, a square edge has a more serious, stern look, while the round edge tends to look friendlier, more approachable.

If you select a barrel cuff, the same option exists for square or round, but you are also able to choose if you want one button or two.  Barrel round is more traditional and more appropriate in business settings versus barrel square. Barrel square is more casual and has a modern look. A one button round barrel cuff is the classic business cuff, though two buttons have recently become popular as well.  The choice is up to you, as the button selection will not change the formality of the shirt.

POCKET

A pocket is not recommended unless you have a practical and necessary use for it.

BACK STYLE

When you purchase a shirt off-the-rack, often times you'll see one of any number of pleats or folds on the back of the shirt to allow for more room. Back pleats are more comfortable as well as “baggier” around the torso. This is what allows an off-the-rack shirt to partially fit everybody, and perfectly fit nobody. When you get a custom shirt, the only reason to request these pleats (Side Pleats A) in the back is if your weight fluctuates and you want some extra room. If this isn't the case for you, we recommend a plain backed shirt which will allow for a much more precise torso fit (Plain B) in addition to being more elegant.

BOTTOM STYLE

There are two options for the bottom shirt style. The Cut style should always be tucked in – the side cut is higher to make the shirt tuck-in easier. A regular bottom can be worn tucked-in or out. It has a flatter bottom with a lower cut height, which is useful when wearing pants lower on the hips – regular bottom is more versatile.

MONOGRAM LOCATION

A monogram can appear anywhere on the shirt that you choose. Two common locations are on the pocket and the cuff, though placket location is becoming more popular. The pocket and cuff show more easily, while the placket is more discreet. Another location is below the left rib cage and is preferred by traditionalists; you should wear a suit on a daily basis with this location.

If you have any questions or comments, please send us an email at contact@alexander-west.com.

Prepared by Alexander West:

Tory Leggat

Heather Taylor

Keisha White

Alex Yoo